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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. But, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small place securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.